August 22, 2012

Barcelona - Tim's Birthday Trip

For my 'big' birthday, Tim and I spent a wonderful week on Pender Island kayaking, hiking and cycling.  So for Tim's 'big' birthday we were going to go somewhere special too.  At the time, we were going to go to Hawaii (get it - Hawaii 5 0).  But since we are now living in Germany, this wasn't going to happen.  So.... Barcelona it is!

(Barcelona – home to 1.6 million  /  a population of 5.2 million in the metropolitan area)

The Beaches

The Port

The City


I have to admit, I was a little apprehensive about spending 10 days in Barcelona.  Probably because the last time Tim and I were there we couldn’t get out of there quick enough.  It was just before the ’92 Barcelona Olympics and the whole port / waterfront area was under construction.  And, I also think that our hotel that we were in was in the seedy part of town (it still is).

But this is what Tim wanted as he had heard from a number of colleagues that it was a great place to visit.  Well……..I have to eat my words.  This vacation was probably one of the best that we have had in a long time.

The ’92 Olympics totally retivalized this city.  Barcelona was opened to the sea with the construction of the Olympic Village and Olympic Port in Poblenou, a run down, post-industrial neighbourhood.  The old port was demolished and dragged out to sea and sand was drenched up from the sea floor and six artificial beaches were created. Barcelona has been able to turn and face the sea with pride.

The new port facilities developed for the Olympics were used to start a cruise market – something that had been practically nonexistent before 1992. As a result, Barcelona is now one of the leading cruise destinations in Europe with facilities that can cater for up to 26,000 passengers daily.

Not only did Barcelona react well to the Games, it succeeded in maintaining the growth generated, on a scale never seen before.

I read a quote in one of the books that was in our apartment:

Barcelona is absolutely a world class city. From its architecture to its boulevards to its parks, it is a vast, diverse, center of culture and entertainment. It literally pulsates with energy.”

This is absolutely true.

It is great.  The only thing is, is that it is said that Barcelona is the pickpocket capital of Europe.  We took extra care and did not carry any credit cards, large amounts of cash or our passports.  We were smart tourists and we didn’t have any problems. It is also said that it is a party place and it is.  Which is true.  Most of the cafes and bars on the beach turn into night clubs that open up at midnight and close at around 0500 – 0530. But who goes out at midnight!#$%?

The amount of staff dedicated to keeping the city clean is amazing.  Tim and I would be out running along the beach promenade at 0830 hrs and some of the beaches would be littered with garbage and plastic glasses (and sleeping, okay passed out, people).  But within an hour, the beaches were clean.

Going to Barcelona at this time of  the year is a bit iffy.  The weather is typically very hot (it was around 34 C daily), alot of tourists (end of July /full month of August is the busiest travelling month for Europeans - never mind others from around the world), and a lot of the small family owned shops and restaurants can close up for the month.  Luckily we were there just before shops and restaurants were closing for the month.

Our first night there, we walked down to the port and found that there was a latin american festival going on at the harbour / port.

Of course, we had to try some food!!


The port at night!

 Yes, that is 30C.....

....at 9:43 pm!!!












Las Ramblas



With a variety of cafe’s, shops, and markets, tourists are presented with endless entertainment. About 1.5 kilometers long, the Las Ramblas is a large pedestrian-oriented boulevard, lined by towering trees, that link the city to the waterfront. The central walkway is about 60 ft wide.  Its central pedestrian promenade is unique in that it is wide enough to be lined on either side by seating for restaurants, or a flower stand while leaving abundant space to fit hundreds of people. Artists, musicians, and magicians all flock to Las Ramblas to try and awe and amaze those passing by.  And there are a lot of them.  Tim and I didn’t stroll this boulevard too often as it was just too busy.  It is also a great hub for the pickpocketers.




But it is  truly a great public space and is full of life and community.  I think that Victoria could learn a lesson here for Government Street - rethink how we prioritize cars and start  accommodating the pedestrian.

The Ramblas itself, including the Placa de Catalunya at its head, has a secure and storied reputation as a center of high society, debate and discussion, and people-watching - so much so that it has actually entered the Spanish vocabulary: a "ramblista" is one who saunters along the Ramblas, perhaps making a day of it.


Our Apartment


Barcelona is amazing and the apartment we rented was wonderful and in a great location – in the Gothic Quarter – Bari Gotic.  Here is the link to our rental apartment. We were in 1B
 Our apartment - on C. Regomir, 25    It had air conditioning, a safe and a washer/dryer (a necessity).  And is was very very quite - perfect.
The main door to our apartment!

The Beaches


There are 8 beaches within a 10 minute walk of the old town of Barcelona. There is a paved walkway / promenade that runs the whole length of the beaches – 4.5 km.  It is a great place for walking , jogging and cycling.  Tim and I walked the beach everyday and we jogged it four times during our stay.  Restaurants and chiringuitos (beach bars) line the walkway and the beach.

At one end is the W Hotel and seemed to be more of a nudist beach.  Well, nudism was accepted there – not a family beach. 

It seems that women going topless is accepted at all the beaches. 


Located in the middle of the group of beaches is where the Olympic Village was and there is a lovely marina.  It is also the location of the famous bronze fish statue, by Frank Gehry,





Also, in the middle group of beaches, is an outdoor gym.....



This is Matt Damon!  Okay, maybe not, but it sure looked like him.

The beaches furthest away from downtown are mostly visited by locals.

What is amazing is that all the beaches have lifeguard services, showers and washrooms (at not cost) and ramped walkways for easy access to and from the beach

The Sights


Plaça Reial

Plaça Reial (In Spanish Plaza Real, meaning "Royal Plaza") is a square in the Barri Gothic  It is a popular meeting place in the summer and on the plaza it has a large number of restaurants.

Barcelona Cathedral

The Cathedral uses the Catalan Gothic architecture of the 14th century.  Construction started in 1298 and was completed in 1448.





Parc Ciutadella

Entrance to the park.
Often overlooked by tourists is the Parc Ciutadella.  Just outside the entrance to the park is Barcelona's Arc de Triumph was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1888.

Barcelona's version of the Arc de Triumph

The Casacada is truly amazing.  It was first inaugurated in 1881 but was criticized by the press as it was without sculptures or any meticulous details.  After 6 years of construction additions were made and was thenceforth put on display at the Universal Exhibition.  It is absolutely amazing!  I don't know how many pictures we took of it, but you just couldn't stop admiring it and taking photos from so many angles...



 Please tell me to stop...... I can't





Okay, no more picture of this beautiful fountain.


Santa Maria del Mar Basilica


This church is one of the best examples of the Catalan Gothic style and was the church of the ship owners and merchants during Gothic times.






Sagrada Familia Church

Alot of people come to Barcelona to see this church.  Construction started in 1882 and it is still not completed.  They estimate that it will be finished in 2026.  The admission charge paid by 2 1/2 million visitors each year is what is paying for the building construction.

It is quite amazing.  The day we walked there it was 34 C and line line up, at 1000 in the morning was hours long - not for Jayne and Tim.  So we admired it from the outside.

Architect Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926)








Gambrinus


Gambrinus waits at the end of Passeig de Colom, its big pincing claws but cheeky smile welcoming you to the port. This huge cartoon-like lobster was, like most of the art in this area, done for the Olympics. Perhaps it is representing all its other marine friends that are to be eaten in the many seafood restaurants that line the waterfront. The artist is Javier Mariscal. 

Gambrinus


Bicing is the community bicycle program in Barcelona and only for the residents only.  I have never seen these types of bikes used sooooo much.  They are everywhere!  Currently the network consists of more than 400 stations to lend and return over 6000 bicycles distributed throughout the system.  Every bike is used 10 to 15 times per day.


The Streets, The Alleys, The Lanes, The Architecture


In Barcelona, it is all about being out on the streets - especially to eat.














You may notice all of the graffiti in the pictures.  The graffiti is on the roller blinds or large doors that the retailers, restaurants use to lock up at the end of the day.  So behind every graffiti is a store, cafe, restaurant - you never really know what it is until they open up!  Sometimes there will be graffiti of fruit and veggies and then in the morning you will see that it is a produce shop!  You never see graffiti on the walls.








The Food

The language spoken in Barcelona is Catalan.  But most people also speak Spanish.  In most restaurants the menu were in Catalan, Spanish and English.  Some also had French and German.

Of course, Tapas is the thing to eat.  Usually to hold you over until dinner, which starts at around 9:00 pm

Self propelled tapas tour!  Yes, you pay to cycle your way up and down the beach and they serve you beer and tapas.

Take a look at the next two pictures.  They are literally the legs of pigs.

See their hooves.  When you order sliced salami or whatever, the butcher slices it right off this leg,



One night (actually we went back a second time, the food was so good) we stumbled across this typical bar / restaurant.  It was full of locals - 'the' place to eat.  We each ordered the special: a half rotisserie chicken, salad and potato wedges for only Euro 8,00 and a bottle of wine for Euro 8,00!


Here is Tim in the local restaurant will the local 'Sunshine Girl' cutouts.  For those of you who don't know what a Sunshine girl is - look on page 3 of the Toronto Sun newspaper.



We often stopped at a cafe and had a cold drink......

One of the restaurants we stopped at for a drink - located in a courtyard - simple!

Early morning coffee and croissant!

Sunday - late lunch - wonderful food.
House wine - EURO 4.00 for the bottle!!!!


This was a great little restaurant around the corner from our apartment.  The young server took a liking to us and took great care of us!

My cousin Annie and her husband John, from the UK, have a summer house near Perpignan, France - about a 2 hr drive from Barcelona.  When I told them that we were going to be in Barcelona, they joined us for a day.


We went to Los Caracoles for lunch.  As you walk down Escudellers, one of the Old Quarter's most seedily atmospheric lanes, you are drawn on by the aroma of roasting chickens rotating on an outside spit built into the side of the building.


Enter through the main kitchen, complete with steaming pots and hot-under-the-collar cooks.



 Inside, the restaurant is a labyrinth -- stairways lead to more dining rooms; private one-table nooks are hidden under stairs; and there are colorful tiles, wooden beamed ceilings, and antique fittings everywhere. The place positively oozes with character, and the cuisine is mainly Catalan comfort food:  paella, grilled squid and of course, rotisserie chicken.






You can even take a bus tour and eat at the same time........no, we didn't do that.


Inside the bus!


The Market


Le Boqueria is one of the oldest and largest markets in Spain, first recorded in the beginning of the 13th century, is a true horn of plenty.  The stalls of the market are full of fruits, vegetables, meat (all kinds of), different sort of fish and seafoods from all over the world, nuts, candies and chocolates.






What a great way to display eggs.

Hummmm, which one shall I choose!



Some of the best places to eat are at these cafes in the market!!





A kid in the candy store!!



 And, of course, we found a wine store in the market.  Everyday, they open up and set up a table in the front of their store and sell wine and cava (Spanish sparkling wines)  -  for only Euro 2,00.  Amazing!  And the white wine was cold too!!!








We also visited a number of other markets.  There are smaller markets in every neighbourhood.

The People


Of course, we came across a wedding.....


Enjoying a drink!
A typical Spaniard - oh, sorry, a typical Spanish hat!

I guess the new Spiderman movie opened that day!!



Well, what else can we say!  We had an absolutely fabulous time in Barcelona.  For those of you who haven't been - it is a must!!

Until next time........Jayne and Tim